Parts and


APEX 460 Mod Kit

CEK 12


P K47

P K67

CEK 47

CEK 89

34 mm Saddle and Post

Saddle and Post and Base
 - for 32 mm Capsule

We recommend and sell the following 
parts to complete your APEX 460 
1 - BV11P Transformer
1 - 6072A-M Microphone Grade Tube
1 - 34mm Saddle w/ Post
1 - .68 Mylar Capacitor 

Apex 460 Modification Kit: 
$214.00 CAD
(capsule not included)
plus applicable taxes and shipping
shipping included with capsule purchase

APEX 460

You Can Do This
Simple Modification of an APEX 460 
Using our Mod Kit and CEK-12, P-K67 or P-K47 Capsules
This popular and much-discussed modification to the APEX 460 really isn't that difficult. 

There are several advanced variations on this basic mod that you can research, some 
involve removing a layer of screen from the head grille, altering the usage of the tube
etc etc. This version is pretty simple and if you're careful you don't have to be a tech
to do it.

It also sounds great.

DISCLAIMER: I suppose I'm obliged to say Canadian Audio Distributors or Peluso 
Microphone  Lab are not responsible for any damages to your microphone or 
personal property resulting  from the use of this tutorial. Try this strictly at your
own risk. No warranty is offered or implied. This tutorial is not endorsed by Apex
or any related company.

Okay, with that out of the way... here's one way to do it.

You will need:
1 - APEX 460 Microphone (obviously!)
1 - Peluso CEK-12 (AKG Style), P-K67 (Neumann U-67 Style)
     or P-K47 Capsule (Neumann U-47 Style)
1 - Apex 460 Mod Kit

(which includes)
1 - BV11P Transformer        
1 - 6072A-M Microphone Grade Tube 
1 - 34mm Saddle w/ Post 
1 - .68 Mylar Capacitor 

CEK-12, P-K67 or P-K47 - What's the Difference?
They all work in this mod, so what's the difference? The CEK-12 provides an AKG type 
sound, with a rise in the top end, a smooth midrange, and a deep solid low end. The
P-K67 is smoother in the highs and mids, with a creamier lows than the CEK-12. The P-K47
is more aggressive and forward in the midrange, still with plenty of highs and a creamy 
low end. 

Tools & Extra Parts:
- Small Jewllers-type Phillips and Flat head Screwdrivers
- Soldering Iron
- Electrical Solder
- A few inches of 1/8" Heat Shrink Tubing
- Heat gun
- A clean, dry surface

Let's Do This!
I'm going to assume you've never had one of these apart before and you're scared 
to death you're going to screw something up. No offense. That's how I felt the first 
time I did one.

Start by unscrewing the cap at the bottom of the mic and removing the body. Have
a good look at what's in there. Leave the head grille on for the time being.

Get the old tube out of there. It's just in the way. The Orange mount is made of rubber,
and you can gently pull it back and twist the whole thing towards yourself. That cone
on the end of the tube is just a pressure fit. Now you can carefully remove the tube from
its socket.

WARNING: the solder connections in the APEX 460 are pretty delicate, and not
always the best work. It's not a bad idea to take lots of photos before you do anything
in case a wire pops off... I had to fix 3 or 4 on this particular mic. 

There's 8 Phillips screws, 4 a side, holding the Transformer Housing in place. Unscrew them. 
Don't strip them either, watch your pent-up aggression.

There are two pressure-fit bars that run up frame on either side of the tube to keep the
wires tidy. They'll just pop out. I used the Flat Head screwdriver for that. 

Here's the old Transformer. The lid of the Housing just pops off. Again watch the soldering
on the connector at the bottom.

Hate to do this, but I just cut out the old Transformer, leaving a good amount of wire in
the mic so you have something to work with.

Strip the transformer connection wires back 1/4" on the mic, and on the BV11P.

Put 3/4" or so of heat shrink on each BV11P wire and tuck it out of the way. You'll shrink it
later, just leave it there for now.

You could use electrical tape, but this is a LOT tidier and slicker. 

Tin all the wires you just stripped. That means put a bit of solder on the exposed end. 
Don't use too much and don't melt the plastic sleeve on the wire... aim and don't leave
the iron sitting on the wire forever!

The BV11P transformer connects as follows:

Red mic wire to Red on Xfmr
White mic wire to Black on Xfmr
Green mic to Yellow on Xfmr
Black mic wire to Brown on Xfmr

Once the wires are tinned, splice the correct wires together by heating the solder briefly
so they melt together. Give it a gentle tug so you know they're firm.

Pull the heat shrink up over the connections once you have the wires spliced. Use as little
heat as possible to shrink it, and obviously keep the heat away from your capsules etc etc.

Reassemble the Transformer Housing, tuck in the wires tidily.

Now that the transformer is connected, time to change out the capacitor. Here's the old
one... it looks nothing like the new one. It's in the C8 Position... it's the cap in the audio

Unscrew the two screws on the circuit board (they're painted red here), and gently flip
the board over, exposing the traces that hold the old cap on. DON'T HEAT THEM TOO MUCH!
You don't want to mess up the board... just heat them enough to remove the old capacitor.

The new .68 Mylar Capacitor is not biased in any direction. It doesn't matter which way
you install it. Because it's so large, it has to lay down. You can either tuck both of the wires
into the socket, or jumper a wire to the bottom connection of the .68 Capacitor and heat 
shrink it like I did.

This is how it should sit when you're done. It's cozy.

Now for the fun part. The capsule.

There are two screws holding the top of the frame in place. Pop those out.
Also remove the two screws holding the Head Grille on. 

Desolder the two red and one blue wires that connect the old capsule.

Remove the old capsule, saddle and all, by removing the two screws that hold it to the
top plate.

Replace the old saddle with the new 34mm Saddle. The old saddle won't work as it's 
for a 32mm capsule. This will sit a little high in the head grille, but that's no cause for

Attach the new CEK-12, P-K67 or P-K47 to the new saddle.

DON'T touch the front of the capsule obviously, handle it by the sides. Don't remove
the RED wires, as the capsule is tuned like a drum, and you don't want to change that!

You will need to unscrew one of the BLUE wires on the side of the capsule to mount it to
the SADDLE. That's okay. 

Thread the wires through the top plate of the mic, and be really careful about what you
touch. Make sure your environment is clean and dust free, but a piece of trivia: Neumann
used to build U47s beside an open window a LONG time ago. You don't have to go totally
bonkers, but definitely keep the ambient particles to a minimum.

Replace the head grille to protect the capsule, remembering to face the little Cardiod
symbol towards the front.

Strip, tin, and solder the Capsule connections to the circuit board. You'll notice you now 
have TWO BLUE GROUND WIRES where the Apex only had one. The two BLUE ground
wires should be tied together. If you leave one disconnected, the mic will buzz!

NOTE: Apparently the two posts on the front of the circuit board pictured here no longer
exist on the board in newer models of the 460. The capsule wires connect on the back. 
Just so you know!

Don't forget to replace the two little bars on the frame on either side of the tube.

Before you reassemble the mic: Inspect the back of the board and all other connections
to make sure nothing popped off! 

Here's what the mic should look like on the inside when you have it back together:

Put the body back on and test 'er out. Hope you like it. 

If you have any questions, please email me at: canadianaudio@sympatico.ca

Good luck!

Back to CEK-12 page here
Back to P-K67 page here
Back to P-K47 page here

June 4, 2020